Converting S front brake to SF

Well, luck would have it that i came across a great deal from a forum member over at the supermoto junkie forums who had a complete front brake setup for CHEAP.  So i snatched it up just to complete that last little detail on my converted S model.  Below is a quick overview and photo follow along of the install -

First get your bike up on a stable platform to remove the front tire.  I have a couple of moto stands from harbor freight that work pretty good.

Next, move around to the front of the bike and loosen the 10mm fork clamps for the axle, and then loosen the axle nut with 17mm and 19mm sockets or wrenches.

Slide the axle out from the left side of the bike and slide the wheel out taking care to not lose the spacer on the right side (rotor side) of the wheel and sliding the rotor from between the brake pads on the front caliper.

Set the wheel spacer, axle and axle nut aside and set your wheel down on a flat surface to work on removing the rotor bolts.  I like to use a large broken down cardboard box to prevent scratching of the wheel.  Remove the rotor bolts with a 6mm allen wrench. To break the bolts loose I used a 3/8 drive ratchet and allen socket since they were so tight.

Once the bolts are removed you should be able to lift the rotor off the wheel.  The rotor cushion foam piece will probably stick to the rotor and come with it.  I re-used mine, i believe its intended function is to reduce brake noise.  Put the new rotor on and line up the bolt holes, then replace and tighten the rotor bolts.

You can see the size difference between the S and SF rotors.  Will this translate into better braking ? Only one way to find out.

Now we move on to the caliper bracket that will move the brake caliper farther away from the wheel to allow clearance for the larger rotor.

To install this, we first need to remove the bolt that holds the brake line bracket so we can get that out of the way to give us some more workroom.  Its a 10mm IIRC.

With that out of the way, loosen the caliper retention bolt on the inside of caliper.  This will allow us to remove the caliper from the bracket later and is very tight, so i recommend doing this first while everything else is still bolted to the bike.  You don't need to remove it all the way, just break it loose.

Next, remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts, these are 6mm allen, same size as the rotor bolts.  I recommend 3/8 drive ratchet and allen socket for this as well.

With those two bolts removed the caliper and bracket should dismount from the fork.  Now you can remove the caliper retaining bolt from the back of the caliper and slide the caliper from the bracket.  I had to use a bit of propane torch and a punch to tap the retaining bolt from the bracket due to a little bit of corrosion.  I don't have detailed pictures of this step but its easy enough to figure out, but may take a little wiggling and finagling to convince the caliper to slide from the bracket.

there is a small post bolted to the bracket that slides into a rubber boot on the caliper (middle of the bracket in the pic below), this stays on the bracket where as the other rubber booted bolt stays on the caliper (the D shaped hole on the upper left of the pic below).

Now install the caliper to the new bracket taking care to ensure the retaining bolt is orientated properly into the D shaped hole and that the caliper post on the bracket is installed correctly into the rubber boot of the caliper.  this again may take some jiggling and finagling.  Once that is done you can re-install the caliper retaining nut and put the bracket and caliper back onto the fork.

Re-tighten the two 6mm bracket bolts to the fork and then re-torque the caliper retaining nut. Replace and tighten the brake line holder bracket and you are done with the caliper.

Slide the wheel back into place taking care to ensure the spacer is reinstalled correctly on the rotor side of the wheel.and the speedo drive is reinstalled correctly on the other side.  Slide the axle back into place and retighten the axle nut to 65 ft-lbs.

Now stand back and admire you new fully supermotoed KLX250S.

Now, i really don't think i've noticed any improved braking performance from the larger rotor, and to be perfectly honest if I hadn't gotten a good price for everything i wouldn't have bothered.  Now, if you are taking your bike to the track and running it hard, it might be a different story.  BUT for my use so far on the street, i can't tell a difference.

Thanks.